Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Shimokita Hanto, Aomori 下北半島、青森県

Aomori is the most northern prefecture on the main island of Honshu. It's typically well known for Hirosake Castle amongst the cherry blossoms, apples, dreary weather, and the place where the Tohoku Shinkansen stops.

However, there is one very overlooked jewel at the most northern part of the right-hand peninsula, Shimo-kita Hanto: Osorezan aka Fear Mountain.

According to tradition, Osorezan is the place where dead spirits travel to in order to pass on into the next life. By the looks of things, I'm not surprised:

Throughout the temple site atop the crater, you're surrounded by sulfuric rocks, a dead lake which supports no life, and perhaps saddest of all, the colourful pinwheels which symbolize children who either died prematurely, or very early in life.

The depressing bits aside, this is a truly beautiful place. The colours, views and sounds (or lack thereof) can't really be experienced anywhere else in Japan.

Getting there:
From Tokyo, take the Tohoku Shinkansen as far as it will go until you reach Hachinohe Station. From here you can transfer to a Hakucho or Super Hakucho for about 30 min. until you reach Noheji station.

At this point, I would recommend renting a car to get up the peninsula. There are bus services, but they are very limited, and the local train will only take you as far as Mutsu, a small city near the base of the mountain.

While you're there:
I recommend making the journey to the far eastern end of the peninsula to Hotokegaura. This is a beautiful bit of coastline with sheer cliffs that are said to remind one of Buddha.

Shimokita Peninsula is one of Japan's hidden, albeit remote, gems. It certainly won't be included on your package tour.

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